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does anybody use testors? how does it work?
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pntkd2 wrote:does anybody use testors? how does it work? I can only speak for myself and from memory; I don't know if they make flat paint but the Testor's I used to use was glossy, so if you're looking for that no problem. When painting mini's I always prefered flat.
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pntkd2 wrote:does anybody use testors? how does it work? No, dont do it. For minis you want acrylic paint. I have only ever used games workshops paints, though im not sure if they make them any more. I bought a starter set (about 40$ and 10 paints) and it has lasted me a few hundred minis, the only colors I needed to re buy were red black and white. I would go with games workship/citadel. Also p3 paint formula from privateer press is suposed to be good but I have never tryed it.
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thanks a ton, I was about to buy some and test it. you saved me some $$$ :)
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Also there is a paint called vallejo which I have heard rave reviews about but also have yet to try. The thing with testors (I did not realize until now that they made acrylics, but Im in to a new game called warmachine and EVERYONE there is an expert painter and no one has ever suggested it, back to the point, alot of their stuff is enamel which takes alot of extra work to use)
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Darthbane53 wrote:Also there is a paint called vallejo which I have heard rave reviews about but also have yet to try. The thing with testors (I did not realize until now that they made acrylics, but Im in to a new game called warmachine and EVERYONE there is an expert painter and no one has ever suggested it, back to the point, alot of their stuff is enamel which takes alot of extra work to use) Yes, enamel was the word I couldn't remember; Acrylic over enamel everytime. Games Workshop (otherwise known as the Warhammer paint) is still around and like Vallejo, pretty expensive. I admit I've gone cheap on my paint, but then again, my grandkids don't play/maul/chew my mini's so I just use Americana acrylic paint I buy at a crafts store named Michaels; usually .79 cents a a hundred colors to choose from; it works for me but I'm not creating works of art like Biggsy 
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The only problem I have begun to notice when using non-gaming paints is its much thinner and doesnt give you enough cover. And may in some cases take more than one coat to get a good cover. I would suggest gaming paints, now if your on a budget, with no way else to go, they arent terrible and can pass as being a viable option. But I would spend the money for the good paints over the cheap ones.
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thanks guys, also what about for lightsabers and their hilts?
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pntkd2 wrote:thanks guys, also what about for lightsabers and their hilts? For lightsabers im about to get some 1/16th inch acryllic rods. They can be cut down to the size of sabers and all you need is a sharpie to color it (its clear) and it will be any translucent color. Ill let you know how those work as soon as I get them. I could probably even send you a few if you wanted, provided its ok with corranhorn whos buying them lol. As for hilts I use green stuff. Its the end all be all of modeling tools. You know what green stuff is right??
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yeah I do, but have no experience using it. where are you getting the rods from?
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pntkd2 wrote:yeah I do, but have no experience using it. where are you getting the rods from? Not 100% sure yet to be honest. BUt as for green stuff buy it. Its an invaluable crafters tool. Given I just got in to a new game and like to alter the factory figures but I used the last of what I had and just bought another 3 feet worth of the stuff
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it doesnt ever dry out does it
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pntkd2 wrote:it doesnt ever dry out does it I would guess I had it in the closet for close to a year and it was no different that it was when I got it. Maybe if you have it in a dry drawer for a couple years it might be bad, but thats just speculation.
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If I remember right, scale for the acrylic rods when cut are about 1" long. I used to sand the edge round; flat edged lughtsabers just bugged me 
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The only time you would ever want to use an oil based paint (like Testors) for a miniature, is if you are doing a face and trying to get a subtle blending effect AND you don't mind letting it sit for a month or longer to dry.
I've used Games Workshop's Citadel, Vellejo Model & Game, and Privateer Press's P3 acrylics, which I generally stick to. If you use a wet palette, you can achieve a blending effect similar to that which you would get with oils.
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