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Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member Groups: Member
Joined: 7/28/2013 Posts: 548
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What do you all use for determining line of sight? Do you guys ever have "arguments" over it?
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Rank: Moderator Groups: Member
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Joined: 1/30/2009 Posts: 6,457 Location: Southern Illinois
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I use retractable ID clips like this:
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Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member Groups: Member
Joined: 7/28/2013 Posts: 548
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swinefeld wrote:I use retractable ID clips like this: So...what is the rule then. Does the string have to be inside of the red on both ends to be legal?
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Rank: Moderator Groups: Member
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Joined: 5/26/2009 Posts: 8,428
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darthbinks1 wrote:swinefeld wrote:I use retractable ID clips like this: So...what is the rule then. Does the string have to be inside of the red on both ends to be legal? See the diagram in the rulebook. That's the best way to understand it. Picture's worth 1000 words. But the words... if the only line connecting two squares clips a red corner, there is no line of sight. But a single line clipping a corner doesn't provide cover, either. Just see the rulebook for this one.
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Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member Groups: Member
Joined: 4/30/2008 Posts: 2,093
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and don't forget that the lines go to the end of the squares. If the artwork extend past or doesn't go to the end of a square, you still use the corner when measuring. People often forget that on maps with beveled corners and also there are a couple of maps where the wall line is longer than the square (which when measuring only goes to the end of the square).
Basically all of our "terrain" is 1 inch increments, no matter what the artwork on the map may show.
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Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member Groups: Member
Joined: 7/28/2013 Posts: 548
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urbanjedi wrote:and don't forget that the lines go to the end of the squares. If the artwork extend past or doesn't go to the end of a square, you still use the corner when measuring. People often forget that on maps with beveled corners and also there are a couple of maps where the wall line is longer than the square (which when measuring only goes to the end of the square).
Basically all of our "terrain" is 1 inch increments, no matter what the artwork on the map may show. It really gets difficult if I am elevated on top of some green squares and the map doesn't always have complete lines for each and every box. It makes it hard to know where to measure from.
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Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member Groups: Member
Joined: 12/26/2008 Posts: 2,115 Location: Watertown, SD
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I use a Laser leveler myself. A bit more high-tech, but it works well.
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Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member Groups: Member
Joined: 6/4/2013 Posts: 1,093
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i got a bag of rubber bands and cut them thats wht i use its cheep and easy c:
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Rank: Moderator Groups: Member
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Joined: 9/16/2008 Posts: 2,302
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EmporerDragon wrote:I use a Laser leveler myself. A bit more high-tech, but it works well. Are your maps laminated? Seems like they would have to lay perfectly flat for this to work
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Rank: Moderator Groups: Member
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Joined: 9/16/2008 Posts: 2,302
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CorranHornsux123 wrote:i got a bag of rubber bands and cut them thats wht i use its cheep and easy c: This is my method too, which inevitably ends with a slip that snaps the band and sends a mini flying across the room.
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Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member Groups: Member
Joined: 6/4/2013 Posts: 1,093
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adamb0nd wrote:CorranHornsux123 wrote:i got a bag of rubber bands and cut them thats wht i use its cheep and easy c: This is my method too, which inevitably ends with a slip that snaps the band and sends a mini flying across the room. lol well that hasnt happened to me yet but it probably will sooner or later haha
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Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member Groups: Member
Joined: 12/26/2008 Posts: 2,115 Location: Watertown, SD
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adamb0nd wrote:EmporerDragon wrote:I use a Laser leveler myself. A bit more high-tech, but it works well. Are your maps laminated? Seems like they would have to lay perfectly flat for this to work They aren't laminated, but I have a large plastic sheet from a poster frame bigger than the maps which I just lay on top of them. Flattens them almost as well as laminating.
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