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Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member Groups: Member
Joined: 1/10/2010 Posts: 1,153
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I just got my Green stuff!! But as I Have never used it before, I am wondering is this the right colour? SHould it be a lighter green or something? Also, how long before you can paint onto it? Do I need to cover it in something before painting?
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Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member Groups: Member
Joined: 2/26/2009 Posts: 1,382 Location: Detroit, Mi
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That looks really good WM. I just messing around with this Green stuff too.
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Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member Groups: Member
Joined: 3/27/2008 Posts: 832
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I'm no expert having only used it a couple of times but I've always used some brush on primer so I don't have problems later and it works well. I did have some shrinkage issues using large pieces like that so you might want to let it dry really well before painting at all and fill any gaps that appear.
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Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member Groups: Member
Joined: 7/26/2010 Posts: 1,390 Location: Florida
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Ok, I asked the same question about a month ago. So basically green stuff is a must have for costomizing. First rule, always mix the yellow and blue together. The more blue you use the less malluable it is and vice versa for if you use more yellow. I did realize there is slightly less blue then yellow in the packages but you need less blue to get the right consistancy. If you use more blue you get a darker green and when more yellow is used you get a lighter lime green. From your picture it looks like you could have done with a bit less blue but the way you applied it looks like the same exact way I do. Another trick is for cloaks and stuff like that, while its drying (more often if theres less blue) it wants to obey gravity and not stay 'flared out' to look cool or blowing in the wind so what I do is take a Paper clamp (not a clip, the things were you press on both sides and it opens and when you let go it closes) and clamp that to the base and then hang the handle from something upside down. Keep checking on it though because sometimes it goes way out. Another trick is hair. Once you lay it down the back (assuming its a girl for long hair) you can take your razor blade and just slit it across the green stuff hundreds of times and this gives a pretty decent hair effect. Now to awnser the question you actully asked. Standerd drying time is rougly an hour+ depending on how much you use. For bigger projects that I want to look perfect I will let them dry overnight even though thats probably over kill. I use the acrylic plains (citadel) and they dont need anything to be put on prior to painting. Also for painting you can paint it pretty much any time once its dry. Though the other day I was in a rush and painted a cloak and some hair 10min after I put it on (would NOT reccomend) and it was fince except for some cracks opend up in the cloack while it dryed. But wait about an hour as well until its dryed to paint. Any more quesitons let me know! Happy customizing! Heres some Ideas of what I used green stuff for [url=http://www.bloomilk.com/Forums/default.aspx?g=posts&t=8629]
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Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member Groups: Member
Joined: 12/21/2010 Posts: 115
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My 1st experience GS was more of an experience with the Blue stuff (having never used the Green Stuff before). When I made my first mini, after an hour, he started to melt. Revan Looked like he had Bells Paulsey.
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Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member Groups: Member
Joined: 1/10/2010 Posts: 1,153
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Thanks for the helpful tips. I decided to leave it over night just to be safe. Will start my own custom thread soon!
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Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member Groups: Member
Joined: 5/14/2008 Posts: 2,063
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Just as an aside, you can buy a Soldering set (comes with magnifying glass, 2 clamps, a sponge) at RadioShack for a few bucks. I use this for the upclose stuff and to allow an area for the gravity defying effects (Cloaks, Hair, etc) to dry. Be warned, the magnifying glass on some varieties is a bit heavy. If you manipulate too much you can cause it to turn over. http://rcmicroflite.3dcartstores.com/Helping-Hand-with-Larger-2X-Magnifying-lens-with-solder-Iron-holder_p_243.html
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Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member Groups: Member
Joined: 2/26/2009 Posts: 1,382 Location: Detroit, Mi
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Thanks for the tips on using green stuff. Just one quick note about that. I had a hard time finding Greenstuff. They did not have it at Blicks or Hobbie Lobbie. I did find it online but is there another brick and mortar store you would recommend buying it at?
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Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member Groups: Member
Joined: 1/21/2009 Posts: 406
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another question too... is there a difference between grey stuff and green stuff?
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Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member Groups: Member
Joined: 5/14/2008 Posts: 2,063
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From what I was told (and this may be just the stores telling me this to get me to buy both) is that Grey Stuff is better for armor. It hardens faster depending on the more gray you add. It sets up points and such. Green stuff is the basic catch-all stuff. It does a bit of everything but really isn't great for sharp points and armor designs. There is also Brown stuff which is the softer of the three. Takes longer to dry but is better for the more organic-looking stuff. The guy I talked to was doing a 40K Tyranid Drop pod and wanted to add long, looping tendrils to it.
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