I'll be adding a lot more to this as time goes on, but for now I am tired and this is a good start tonight. These are my opinions and methods at the moment, and as this gets filled up I hope to add other peoples methods and suggestions too. Perhaps even Rewriting sections as need be if anyone thinks I missed or neglected something.

I can say now that I will need help on the sculpting parts, so if anyone can contribute, that would be most excellent!

Anyway, I hope this will end up helping some people out, and I can't wait (yes I can, lol) to write more tomorrow.


Basic Stuff

Q: What Paint should I use
A: This is a matter of personal taste, or maybe cost effectiveness. You can use something like Reaper Paints or Citadel Paints which come in tiny bottles at higher price. Or you can use the cheaper acrylics from a craft store such as Folkart which will run you about a quarter of the cost per color. I would usually make a comparison to name brand vs. store brand along the lines of food, where there is basically no difference but the box the product comes in. Although in this case that wouldn't really be completely true. The higher quality stuff does get some amazing results and is a better breed of paint in my opinion, but only by so much. The cheap stuff not only gets the job done, but it's really only so different. About the biggest issue I have had is maybe doing extra coatings with something like the Folkart or Apple Barrel brands. It ultimately all comes down to personal opinion, and it might be a little expensive to make some of those opinions off of. That's why I suggest getting some of the cheaper stuff first, and only the more basic colors to start off. As for my personal preference, the various Reaper or Citadel type paints I've had over the years were used up long ago, and have been replaced by what I've been calling the cheaper stuff. All the recent customs I have posted are painted with Folkart paint, and I think they come out plenty fine. With the blackwashes I do some things might look somewhat dirty, but that is my intention. I always felt Star Wars has a "lived in" look, and I want my minis to be the same.

Q: How should I apply paint to minis?
A: Well first and foremost never just glob paint on and leave it that way. You always want to spread it out over the mini to be as evenly layered as possible. So unless you are painting the majority of a mini one color, use very small amounts on the brush tips. It's likely that you will need to apply several coats of paint to get a color as solid as possible and not be thin in any areas to see what is beneath it. It would be advisable to either use a primer spray with a light coating on a mini, or to just smear a basic neutral color such as a lighter grey onto a mini. This gives it a base application for paint to stick to better and is a great foundation. The light color can also help to enhance the paint being applied for more vibrant colors. this especially helps when you end up doing a Blackwash of some sort, as colors will not be dulled out as much. Painting is fairly intuitive, and I can't think of much else to say, not without talking about Brushes anyway.

Side Note: I suggest A Pallet Like This to pour and mix paints on. It's easy to clean and keeps everythign very neat.

Q: What type of brushes should I use?
A: Small tip paintbrushes are the only choice hear pretty much. I use Loew-Cornell brand brushes, as they come in a ton of sizes and just about all craft stores carry them. Using their product line, I will suggest a few sizes and give examples on their uses.
18/0 Comfort Spotter Brush - This is an extremely small tip brush, and perfect for doing eyes, belts, and I suppose the glowing parts on Vaders Torso Lightbrite.
10/0 Comfort Round Brush - For me this is the standard detail brush, be delicate and you can paint an entire mini with it outside of the tiniest details.
4/0 Comfort Spotter Brush - This one is great for getting larger areas. Painting a base, or an entire mini one color, this gets it done quickly over a smaller size.
00 Comfort Round Brush - This is similar to the 4/0 spotter, but longer and thinner, Large areas but with a delicate touch.
Any random brush - for mixing new colors!

Lets say I am painting Han Solo. I would use the 4/0 Spotter to quickly cover him in a base coat color. Then use the 00 Round to paint his pants, and his vest, shirt and boots with a 10/0 round. the 18/0 Spotter would be for his hands, face, hair, belt and holster and pants stripes. The 4/0 would then make a return to repaint the entire base black again.


Q: Washes and Blackwash, whats that?
A: Creating a wash would be the act of thinning down a paint with water and mixing it thoroughly, then applying it to the miniature. Some companies also sell very thin paints and pigments that act as washes, but it's just as easy to mix your own on demand. Anyway, it should be thin enough to brush around easily, and what happens is the color will get stuck in the crevices, cracks, folds and pores of a miniature, help distinguish various detail and create shadow and depth. Generally a darker version of the color would be good use, or just settling on black, which can bring out almost any detail. Lets say you paint a cape with bright red paint, you might thin down a darker red color wash over it. This would darken some of the red, while also getting stuck in the depths of a cape to create the look of shadows. If you choose to use a color like black, it will work against any color easily, but I suggest being careful with it. It would be advisable to avoid a Blackwash on skin and flesh tones, and in some cases White colors depending on the desired effect. A a lighter brown is much more suitable for skin, while more of a grey wash for whites. Because while the wash will go into the creases of a mini, and can also alter the actual color, so one must be careful. Thats why it is good to test things out on occasion.

I suggest painting a junk mini a solid color, and then using test washes on it, to get a feel for the whole process. Reading about something goes only so far, as the best way to learn is by practicing. As further suggested by CC-23478, try this for practice with back washing. Take some of the new clones with sucky paint, and take a white cap from a water bottle (or a soda bottle) add one drop of paint and then fill the cap with water, stir it real well.....then literally soak the clone when you paint it.....and let the water do the work for you, if the water beads up on the sculpt that's good, its doing its job.....don't wipe the water off, let it dry.....and when its dry you'll have a nice dirty clone

"Congratulations, your not Shinies anymore" -Captain Rex

Q: What is Dry Brushing?
A: I suppose Dry Brushing is the opposite of doing a Wash of some sort. A black wash will get into the crevices, pores, and cracks of a miniature to bring out depth and shadow to a miniature, while Dry Brushing is more of a highlight effect. The idea is to get a little paint onto a brush, and then brush most of it off. You would just swipe the Paint Brush back and forth on a paper towel or some other non important surface, and leave just enough paint that it will sort of dust over the targeted area of a Mini. Barely enough paint to dust it pretty much. Dusting some paint onto a Mini helps to bring out textures especially.

Lets figure you are painting A Red Brick Wall . A wash will end up between all the bricks and bring out some depth in the mortar. A quick Dry Brush however, will bring out the detail and texture of the stone look on the bricks. Different shades of red, maybe two or three would work well. Or perhaps dry brushing might bring out more detail in rivets and joints on a robot or vehicle. Maybe it can be used to create a dirty or worn look on smooth surfaces. Dry brushing various gold and copper type colors can create a rusty look too. It's something else to practice before trying on a real custom too.

Q: How do I seal my paint?
A: I'd like further input on this one.
Sealers are used after a Miniature is fully painted, washed, and dry brushed. The main idea is to protect the Paint from any possible scratches or paint chipping off. It also makes them a little easier to clean if they have a bit of dust.
Anyway, I use Testors Dullcote which creates a matte finish on minis. It does exactly as the name might imply, it will remove a glossy look or even just a basic shine and give a more realistic finish while also protecting the paint. A sealer or finish of some sort can also help dull out a mini for a more real look, or perhaps a glossy look if that is desired. To be honest most paint colors don't change to much when this type of finish is applied, especially if you did a wash or any dry brushing.

Anyway, you also don't want to spray directly onto a mini, spray slightly away from it, and at a reasonable distance for the best effect. figure it like a mist hitting the mini instead of a full on blast which might cause beading up of the spray. Always shake a can of spray stuff well, so that it comes out of the can as cleanly as possible. Spray it and let it dry in a non humid environment and all should be well.

They also make paint on sealers as well, that will come in a gloss or matte finish variety. One such example is Games Workshops Gloss Varnish. The big plus about paint on sealants are more control over how they are used. You can get into the crevices and such that are harder to get to with a spray. It would be recommended to very gently paint this type of stuff on and spread it as evenly as possible. After it dries, you add a second coat if desired to make sure its really on there.

And now a safety tip. Testors Dullcote or any other sprays should never be breathed in, and done either outdoors, or in the garage with the door open. You don't want even the scent in the air of your house. It's nasty and hazardous to your health.

Side Note: (In reference to Spray Sealers) I paint all my minis bases black and I'll tell you why. It is designed to be used on paint not a basic surface. So on older customs where I didn't paint a base, this finish doesn't seem to be as durable against the bare plastic of a WOTC base. That's why I paint the bases now, so that it sticks as perfect as possible and won't get nicked or scratched at all. If you do not wish to paint or get spray on a minis base, then I suggest putting a little bit of painters tape onto them to create a barrier. Then you just peel it off later.

Q: What type of Knife do I use?
A: Any sort of Hobby Knife might do just as well as the next but my personal preference is X-Acto Blades. This link is the specific set I have as well now. Lost an older one during a move. Anyway X-Acto blades are extremely sharp and very strong. I've had cheaper varieties snap on me, even if it is just the tip of a longer thinner blade. But never with an X-Acto. When using blades such as these take very great care and always cut away from yourself if it's not a simple snip. They slice through things very easily, especially WOTC plastic minis.. unless it's a Rancor. Slice slowly and hold the blade very tight for the straightest surfaces possible. Otherwise you can end up with funny angles and curves, or if you are really good, Ogee edges hehe.
Pick up a Cheap Cutting Board as well so you don't ruin a desk or counter surface.

Q: What type of Glue do I use
A: Essentially anything labeled as Super or Krazy glue should work perfectly fine. I use Gorilla Glue while Locktite Control Gel is also suggested. Gorilla Glue and most Super Glue, come in small plastic bottles with a long neck. I squeeze just enough for a drop to appear at the end of the tube, and then dab a bit onto whatever needs gluing. A little bit of glue can go a long way. Try not to use too much as some glues can be just a tad runny. They won't drip all over the place, but when you press two surfaces together, excess glue can be pushed out. In such a case the edge of a piece of paper works well to scrape it off, and you're not ruing something nice to do so. Do be careful as without noticing you can glue your hands together. (Guilty on too many accounts)

I'll let CC-23478 take over in reference to the Locktite Control Gel. It comes for about 3 bucks and is good for about 100 connections......fast drying, very strong, it doesn't run and the bottles have sides you squeeze so you control how much comes out.....it doesn't leave white "misting" either (unless you use a lot) so no need to repaint a broken peice after gluing.

Q: What is pinning, and how do I do it?
A: Pinning, would be making a small holes and then inserting a small piece of metal (I use paper clips) to add stability to a miniature. You would do this on both sides of course and the metal piece just fits in so that it is more than just 2 surfaces and glue keeping something together. For Star Wars, imagine pinning a Lightsaber or hand into place to make sure it stays put, parts that might otherwise be delicate. As reliable as Super Glue can be, it's not a bad idea to have the extra strength and support of a peg. From my personal experience, pinning is more in line for Metal figures than plastic, but it couldn't hurt to do it for plastic as well. You can make small holes using an X-acto knife in plastic, or you can use a Pin Vice to drill a small hole as well. I personally have less experience with Pin Vices, as I have not owned one and only borrowed, but I find they work better with metal, while a tiny stab from a knife into plastic works fine. The plastic can expand a little, to make room for a paper clip piece while the metal simply can't and the Pin Vice is necessary. I am linking to A very Instructional Video so that you get a better idea of how a Pin Vice would work. It is a good idea to try both methods out on test figures as well, to get a feel for it, and also to not ruin anything nice.

Q: What is Green Stuff and How do I use it? (contributed entirely by Darthbane53)
A: Green stuff also known as Modeling Putty is an epoxy mix of sorts, and probably the best you can get. It has an infinite number of uses and is very handy. You can find it in gaming stores or online, here are two common brands. Reapers and Games Workshop. When you buy your green stuff you get a yellow putty and blue putty. Cut or pull a tiny bit off of each side and mix them together. Like most crafts, a little goes a long way. Another thing to keep in mind is that your mixing the two half’s together, so if you take two large chunks from each you have twice as much as you need. You can then begin to mix the two putty’s together, there’s more yellow then blue putty in each package because you don’t need as much blue. When you mix more blue than yellow it becomes a dark green and its very strong and not too malleable. If you use more yellow then green you end up with a very lime green mixture that’s sticky but not as strong. (One way to rectify the stickiness of the green stuff is to dip it in water. This will also keep it ‘fresh’ so you have longer before it begins to harden).

The best mix is a mild green as your finishing color. You will know that its fully mixed when you only seen one color, not some blue here and some yellow there, but just one solid color. Now at this point your only limited to your imagination as to what you can do with it. A common application is to use it as a cape, this can be done by flattening and elongating it by pressing it with your fingers as you would with play-doh. (I don’t recommend rolling it out on a table or other surface because it WILL stick to that surface) Then just put it on whom ever back and let it either fall naturally or you can use a clamp or something similar to pose the mini at an angel so the cape falls and dry’s with gravity. This will give it the "in action" effect as if they were about to attack.

You can use it to fill in gaps where you glued two pieces together and paint then it will look flawless. This is used if you cut off and arm and place it at a different angle and there’s still a crevice open. On top of superglue, green stuff is also surprisingly adhesive. It can even sometimes be used in place of super glue if you need to place a limb at an odd angle. One thing to keep in mind is green stuff does not dry fast. Unlike your glue you will need to wait anywhere from an hour to overnight depending on how much you use. You can tell its hardened because it will fill the same as the plastic (another problem with having too much yellow in your mixture is that it takes extremely long to dry). From there it can be painted over or have more green stuff added on top of it, though I do recommend if your adding green stuff to green stuff (Ex, your adding spikes to a shield or piece of armor) do it while its not dry that way they will both stick to each other.

Methods of Madness

Repositioning a Mini by Heat
There are two very simple methods to fix a bent up mini. No matter what, icy cold water is involved. Otherwise you will use very hot water, or a Hair Dryer. The idea is to heat up the plastic till it is very soft and bendy. You do this by leaving a mini in near boiling water for 30 seconds to a minute depending how hot the water is, or by keeping it under heat from a Hair dryer till it feels soft enough. You then reshape the mini as desired and keep it in the cold water, which reverts the soft heated plastic almost immediately to a solid state.

This works best for lightsabers, rifles, thin arms and legs such as a Battle droid, and bases if they are bent up.
It can work on thicker arms like a wookiee, but they tend to revert back to an original form more often than not. And if that's the case it brings us to the next method.

Repositioning a Mini by Slicing it up
This is a method very carefully done with a Hobby Knife, and super glue. You can also incorporate the pinning method into this as well. If you would like a hand to be at another angle you can simply cut it off and glue it back as such. If you want an arm to be closer to a body and not outstretched as much like an RS General Veers, you cut it at the shoulder and remove a small sliver of it on the correct angle so that the arm might be pointed downward now.

You can completely reshape arms and other bits of a mini like this. I recently repositioned an IE Scout Troopers arms for a custom. I did this by cutting them at the shoulders and elbows, and creating proper angles by cutting off very thin slivers of plastic so that when they reattach, they are now shaped to hold a long rifle in two hands. Not always, but if need be save junk figures you have cut up. I needed to borrow two plastic chunks and cut them to the right shape to give back some elbow room. You can also sculpt pieces to fit in with green stuff in such situations too, but witht he segmented armor, I went with recycled plastic chunks from Gha Nacht. Thanks Target, for all the Gha Nachts I got at the Christmas Sale.

Paint Sealing Tricks
If you are using a Matte Finish spray sealer, and want a weapon, armor, or metal type part of a mini to appear shiny, then I suggest using Metallic or Sequin paints. After the matte finish is applied they will still remain Metallic with a shimmer, and appear only slightly less shiny.

If you are using paint on sealers, and wish something to be shiny like a giant rifle, use a glossy finish on just that part. Maybe you want a Stormtrooper or Mandalorian to have shined up armor. Once more paint just those armor pieces with the Gloss and the rest with a Matte finish and it will come out great. It's all up to personal taste and there is no need to settle on just one kind of Sealer for all minis.

I haven't pinned any of my minis and since I switched to a decent glue I've had no problems with them breaking....and to be frank, if they break all you gotta do is re glue it

I also use citadel paints, they're amazing

As for glue I use locktite control gel, it comes for about 3 bucks and is good for about 100 connections......fast drying, very strong, it doesn't run and the bottles have sides you squeeze so you control how much comes out.....it doesn't leave white "misting" either (unless you use a lot) so no need to repaint a broken peice after gluing


Sidenote, this may make a good sticky since these questions are asked a lot

Anyway to lock an arm into position with the boiling water/cold water trick? I have arms in the proper position but then they just revert back to the normal. Or is this a "must amputate" type of deal?

Updated!

And I am happy to post this stuff. I hope it helps people

Ah, thanks a ton Bane!

I guess I'd like to know more about any small scultiping tools as well. I used to work with Sculpey and clay on a larger scale but I am unfamiliar with Green Stuff still. So any and all information is well appreciated by myself and everyone else!

Side note, while i did use the aforementioned testers dullcoat when I used their paints, I have seen no need for it when using citadel paints

The material I use is called "Kneadatite Blue/Yellow Epoxy Putty Tape". It's produced by Polymeric Systems, Inc. I got it for about $20 I think and it has lasted a looooong time. Good stuff.

Yet!

I'll do more on this tomorrow after work likely

Obviously this is no help but I dont use sealers. I have painted well over 100 customs and never had a problem with paint chipping. Also I dont like the 'glaze' it puts on the minis, makes them all shiny. Plus knowing crafting stuff its probably no less then 15$. Any way im glad I could help, and ill definatly post more tips when I have some more time!