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Custom Terrain-Lego style Options
hothie
Posted: Tuesday, January 17, 2012 2:02:19 PM
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Joined: 6/21/2008
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So, our RPG group will soon be on a mission to learn about/steal a TIE Hunter. I've decided that I want to build an Imperial hangar map out of legos. I've got some plans drawn up, and I've started to build it. This means taking apart the Death Star, UCS Star Destroyer, etc (you should have seen the look on Lady Hothie's face when I mentioned taking those big sets apart...:) )

Has anyone else tried this before, using legos to build a map to play on? I'd be interested in hearing ideas and such.

The main trouble I'm running into is in order to make a 1 inch square, I need a 3X3 area, and lego doesn't make 3X3 plates. So I have to use a 2X3 and a 1X3.

Also how do you make inch square lines so that people know how far they can move? My solution to that has been to use alternating old grey/new grey colors, but in regular light sometimes it's difficult to tell the difference.

Other issues have been that a "wall" on a regular map is a line, but in lego it's 1 stud thick, so I've had to be creative to keep the floors lined up between rooms and such.

Anyway, I'll post pics as I get it more done. And any thoughts/suggestions would be welcome! :)
jak
Posted: Wednesday, January 18, 2012 2:33:25 AM
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Location: Beggers Canyon Tatooine
I did this before. making maps out of Legos is super fun.Woot
I drew the lines for squares on large base plates.
I used permanent marker, but maybe a dry or wet erase marker would work also.

for the walls I used a flat pieces attached perpendicularly to the flat bases.

If you need pics, BM me your phone # and I'll send some to your phone
lt_murgen
Posted: Wednesday, January 18, 2012 3:53:59 AM
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Joined: 8/10/2009
Posts: 20
Since this is for the RPG, I suggest moving to a measured-distance move. WHat you do is use 1X1 rounds and thin plates.

The 1x1 round is a locating mark for the lower-right corner of the mini:


Oo.

Then you use a 1x1 thin plate that is 18 studs long. That equates to 1 move, or 6 3x3 studs. They players attach one end of the plate to the 1x1 next to the mini, calculate their move, and place a 2nd 1x1 at their end-point. Then they move the mini, and remove the 1st (now-abandoned) 1x1 round.

This takes most of the argument on moving out.

As for walls, there are 3 ways to do it. First is to simply wedge a plate vertically between two studs on your baseplate. THis works, but can be really flimsy.

Second is to shop sites like Briklink to buy 1x3 panels. They will give you the space on both sides.

Third is to use some kind of special brick to move the walls to the gap between the studs. This can be accomplished by using 1x2 tiles with a center stud. Build the walls off the center stud positions them half way between your normal studs. Or use a 1x1 brick with a side-stud, and attach tiles to it.
hothie
Posted: Tuesday, January 24, 2012 2:50:41 PM
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Joined: 6/21/2008
Posts: 288
Here are some pics I just took. I need to complete the tessellation of the floor before I add more details.







swinefeld
Posted: Tuesday, January 24, 2012 5:08:18 PM
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Joined: 1/30/2009
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Location: Southern Illinois
That looks like it's going to be a lot of fun. ThumpUp
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