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Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 7/12/2012
Posts: 332
Location: Earth
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Well, unfortunately, I bought a Captain Rex for $15 and his paint job was terrible  . His visor was on his forehead and his breathing vents were on his eyes. I'm planning on painting over it with white, and then painting the black and blue. Does anyone know the best choice of paint for painting minis? Thanks in advance.
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Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 3/27/2008
Posts: 832
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Pick your poison. I've used Vallejo Game and Model, Privateer Press, Citadel, and Reaper so I feel I can say it really doesn't matter which one you use. I've also repainted many a white armored trooper so hopefully I can be of some help.
To repaint a sloppy Wizards factory job you will need to buy a small bottle/jar of brush on primer, in this case preferably white. If you want to repaint the whole mini get a spray can of primer and prime the whole thing but it is not necessary. Priming is important because it will save you time and work covering up and getting the paint job right.
After you've primed, go ahead and paint right over top. The main thing is to thin out your paint with water so it's not too thick and will looked globbed on.
When you are done painting, it is important to seal it with a matte sealer so it doesn't chip off. Again you can get either brush on or a spray can. The downside of spraying is that if it is too humid, it can leave a fuzzy/dusty look on your mini. For your needs brush on should work just fine.
I hope that helps.
Other helpful hints:
Make sure you work with as much light as possible. Using a 100 W bulb lamp in a window during the day is ideal and cheap.
If you can work with some type of magnifier can really help a lot.
A good brush is worth the money. A #1 for general work and a 00 for detail work.
Hope that helps.
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Rank: Mandalorian Commander
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/8/2008
Posts: 28
Location: Lansing, OH
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I use Vallejo Model Color. Very heavily pigmented paint that is easy to use. I only prime lead miniatures. My Wizards of the Coast STAR WARS miniatures are never primed, but that's not to say there isn't much prep work. I remove all of the mold lines and putty any areas where there are gaps. I also have a jar of Model Master enamel silver and gold. Vallejo metallics can be a little tricky to use, the only advantage to them is you can mix black with them for darker metal areas. Hope this helps.
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Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 3/27/2008
Posts: 832
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Well I'm no Scotty Speed, but I've both primed and not primed and when cleaning up Wizards factory work with white, I have found priming will save you a few coats.
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Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 9/19/2008
Posts: 1,740
Location: Orange County, CA
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Well, I must admit, after listening to all of you, I always went cheap; of course I used to make 5-10 custom mini's a week. I stopped a year ago when my hand/eye coord just wasn't the same. The X-Acto god is demanding  But I digress. I went cheap and used mostly Americana Acrylic I bought at Michaels for about a 90 cents a bottle. Got a lot more o a selection and since I don'tactuall use the customs as much to play with, they obviously last. Probably made 300-400 customs and never had to replace a singlebottle for the 40 odd colors I've got. Still use them for bigger craft touch ups around the house. But if you're going for high quality/high usage, the mini name brands may be the way to. Anybody notice how long the fancy paints hold up over time?
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Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 7/12/2012
Posts: 332
Location: Earth
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Thanks, everyone! Rex can actually see out of his helmet, now!  I also glued his viewfinder to his head a bit better, since it was a bit wiggly. One more thing. Does anyone notice that the picture of him on the card has different guns that he normally has?  I think he's holding a blaster that General Grievous uses... 
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