|
|
Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 3/28/2008
Posts: 355
Location: Newark, OH, USA
|
I know there are ones out there already, but as I was looking at them, I could not find one that looked just like what I wanted and the right size. So I made my own as an alternative. I posted two versions and printable slices for each. I cut one of each color of mine out in the circle fashion and mounted on two sides of a foam-core board. Wrapped the cut edges with some black cardstock and have a reversible table-top. I plan to run one-inch grid lines over the images, too as another map option although rather small, but could use regular minis rules. Feel free to share with anyone else interested or modify as need be for your own purposes. I have a layered version if you PM me (using PaintShop Pro) if you want to tweak the layers. Feel free to provide any feedback (good or bad) - I'm happy with the way it came out for not being an artist. Web link: http://www.smithohio.com/dejarik/Preview: 
|
|
Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/31/2009
Posts: 1,701
|
...so how would this work? looks awesome enough, lol :P
|
|
Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 3/28/2008
Posts: 355
Location: Newark, OH, USA
|
Somebody had made up rules for playing Holochess here: http://dhost.info/rissa/Holochess/index.htm. I originally just wanted a display board for the beasties, but figure I'll try out the rule set once the minis arrive. There are other rules I've seen links for, but can't find the other ones offhand.
|
|
Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 3/28/2008
Posts: 355
Location: Newark, OH, USA
|
Finally got my prototype 3D board finished and wanted to share some of the pics. The lights do work although they don't look so good in the pics. I modified the design and construction a bit for game play and based on materials and size. The base lets it sit about 5-6 inches off the table which is hard to see from above. Top view of the board:  Combat ready:  Underneath, the base opens for storing the minis:  Ready for a match! 
|
|
Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 6/5/2009
Posts: 190
|
Pretty slick design, bob. What's the diameter of the game board portion itself on that?
My brother and I played a few games on a paper map over the weekend, and brainstormed ideas for a nicer board.
(I'm leaning toward transparent acrylic circle with only the black "squares" added (through indeterminate method at this point.))
|
|
Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 1/10/2010
Posts: 1,153
|
That is pretty awesome. If I had the skills I'd totally make something like it.
|
|
Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 3/28/2008
Posts: 355
Location: Newark, OH, USA
|
NickName wrote:Pretty slick design, bob. What's the diameter of the game board portion itself on that?
My brother and I played a few games on a paper map over the weekend, and brainstormed ideas for a nicer board.
(I'm leaning toward transparent acrylic circle with only the black "squares" added (through indeterminate method at this point.)) Thanks. I was going to get around to posting up some detailed directions for do-it-yourselfers, but here's the short of it. The board is just shy of 14-inch diameter. I do have a blank template design I can email or will post when I get more time. The game board is cut (using tin snips) from aluminum flashing meant for roofing available in 20" wide rolls at any home improvement store. The black "squares" are cut from Cricut Brand black vinyl self-adhesive sheets. They come in rolls - two to a pack (12"x24") at most craft stores or big-box stores with large craft sections for about $10. You can draw out the design on the back and cut them out to perfect shape. The full circle is a little too wide to go all the way across, but plenty of spare corners to get all the "squares" cut. I cut a full circle to get the curve correct and when I sliced the pieces, I had enough for two full boards from one sheet with a little bit to spare. They stick really well to the aluminum and probably would on acrylic. The aluminum tends to curl so needs to be mounted on something flat (I used plywood).
|
|
Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 7/9/2008
Posts: 4,729
Location: Chicago
|
Squid89 wrote:Finally got my prototype 3D board finished and wanted to share some of the pics. The lights do work although they don't look so good in the pics. I modified the design and construction a bit for game play and based on materials and size. The base lets it sit about 5-6 inches off the table which is hard to see from above. Top view of the board: Combat ready: Underneath, the base opens for storing the minis: Ready for a match! Seriously - I would buy one from you. How much would you charge?
|
|
Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 10/3/2008
Posts: 271
|
Amazing job dude.
|
|
Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 4/3/2008
Posts: 584
Location: Cincinnati, OH
|
That's awesome, Bob!! Wow! I printed out a couple copies of the board you put online and then laminated them for use at our Regional tournament. I used one for display, and then gave away another one, along with a set of all 8 monsters, as a door prize at our event.
But this is really sweet. I've been kicking around ideas for how I might create a full size-ish table for Dejarik. I was thinking about the possibilities of making it with a plexiglass top and then lights underneath so that the 'white' parts of the board actually lit up when you turned it on. But I really like your simple approach with the shiny aluminum too!
|
|
Rank: Moderator
Groups: Member
, Moderator
Joined: 5/8/2008
Posts: 2,220
Location: East Coast
|
Aaron, you could do an acid scratch to the "white" parts to give the plexi/acrylic that "white" look.
I have been thinking about this table idea and since I am an engineer and work at a place that has the capabilities...I might have to see if I can make a simple one. If possible, I might be able to sell them. The only problem with that is, does Lucas have the rights for this game?
|
|
Rank: Moderator
Groups: Member
, Moderator
Joined: 5/8/2008
Posts: 2,220
Location: East Coast
|
Can this board be turned into a map for Vassal? We could then play Dejarik on Vassal using the SWM pieces. 
|
|
Rank: Moderator
Groups: Member
, Moderator
Joined: 5/8/2008
Posts: 2,220
Location: East Coast
|
some questions about the game itself:
1) Is diagonal always counted as non-adjacent? For instance, when attacking and pushing. I am probably so forced into SWM rules that I am thinking the closest diagonals are considered adjacent.
2) When pushing, what if there are no open adjacent spaces? Does nothing happen? Or is that a kill?
3) This applies to the rules PDF itself. Under the "Attacking" section, the second paragraph reads:
The results of the attack are calculated by the computer, using the piece’s attack rating versus the opposing piece’s defense rating. (Even though the battle results are decided randomly, the computer’s calculations are based on the ratings of the pieces. Thus, the Savirp would have an even chance of against the Ng’ok, but a 4 to 1 advantage over the Ghhhk.)
Now given the stats listed in the rules, how would the Savirp have and even chance against the Ng'ok, let alone the Savirp being 4 to 1 over the Ghhhk? Not sure I follow that whole thinking.
I believe that's it for now. However, I might add to the list as I playtest this.
(ps...it's also hard to tell myself "there are no AoOs in this game!")
|
|
Rank: Advanced Bloo Milk Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 3/28/2008
Posts: 355
Location: Newark, OH, USA
|
Thanks for all the kind feedback. I tossed around the idea of acrylic for the full board as well. Then re-watching and pausing the scenes from the movie, the board doesn't glow at all - other than the side lights it is quite dark actually. The other issue I was dealing with using the acrylic top is how best to diffuse the light so individual bulbs would not shine upward. I like the look of the aluminum in the end and it does not distract from game play as the under-light might. I would like to see what others come up with for a variety of designs. As for the rules questions - as far as I understand it, diagonal is off limits for attacks and for movement. It is hard to adjust from the SWM rules with diagonal movement and AoO rules. lol We've played the push as only if there is an adjacent square. I like the idea that you could set it up not to be able to push and get a second attack if the first one does not succeed, even if you have the odds. The trouble with the d6 rules posted form so long ago is that hey are old and who knows if these issues were addressed and never updated online. Until the actual minis came out to use, I can't imagine a lot of people were playing the game beyond house rulings and no community consensus was reached. Still messing around with some different combos of dice and trying to get a few workable rules sets. I like how so many are trying new things and playing the game within the game - it's taken over thirty years for some of us who wanted to play the first time we saw it on the big screen. 
|
|
Rank: Moderator
Groups: Member
, Moderator
Joined: 5/8/2008
Posts: 2,220
Location: East Coast
|
I think if we use daison's rules, but lose the extra dice on their stats, it should work out good. Keeps it simple and just add their stats to a single D20 roll. Should still give you a decent spread for that 7+ kill.
I'll try and playtest this over the weekend and see how it goes.
|
|
|
Guest |